When Kainaz Contractor opened Rustom’s in 2015, Delhi, she didn’t dare put keema pav on the homestyle Parsi menu. “Delhi’s version of pav was a sweet-ish bun,” she confesses. She took the time to ...

And on the street, the top vada pao stalls add besan choora to the pao; dabeli is hidden under nylon sev; even a ragda pattice gets blessed with crushed pani-puri shells. It’s more than an ...