And on the street, the top vada pao stalls add besan choora to the pao; dabeli is hidden under nylon sev; even a ragda pattice gets blessed with crushed pani-puri shells. It’s more than an ...

When Kainaz Contractor opened Rustom’s in 2015, Delhi, she didn’t dare put keema pav on the homestyle Parsi menu. “Delhi’s version of pav was a sweet-ish bun,” she confesses. She took the time to ...